MFA Forum in Brief

The MFA Forum is a not-for-profit, participation-based open network established in early 2004 to address key concerns that were predicted with the end of the Multi-Fiber Arrangement.

The Forum works as a collaboration of brands and retailers, trade unions, NGOs and multi-lateral institutions in the textile and garment sector. It aims to improve sustainability while promoting social responsibility and competitiveness in national garment industries that are vulnerable in the post-MFA trading environment.

Apparel Trade Trends

In 2005, the MFA Forum was created as a response to changing trade regulations, which many believed would have cataclysmic implications for the textile and garment industry. It is, however, only now that major shifts can be seen - mainly through a combination of factors, notably the ending of safeguards against China or the recent shake-ups caused by the global recession.

In order for the Forum and other stakeholders to stay abreast of these changes, we have created the apparel trade trend graphs as a tool reflecting the latest information. The graphs are generated from publically available data from the EU EUROSTAT and the US International Trade Commission.

Announcements

 

The MFA Forum Agree on Final Phase of Work - 22 July 2010:

The MFA Forum’s Executive Committee, at a two-day meeting in New York agreed on a final work phase for this unique apparel industry collaboration. The MFA Forum has agreed to close its doors by the end of 2010.

Established in late 2004 to understand and mitigate the negative impacts on apparel workers from the end of the quota system, the MFA Forum has become a leading example of a single industry focused multi-stakeholder initiative. Hundreds of participants from NGOs, voluntary standards groups, trade unions, businesses and multi-lateral institutions worked together to promote responsible competitiveness in key exporting countries in the face of new and fierce global competition.

“The MFA Forum has been able to facilitate a unique collaboration among critical stakeholders with a common interest – to reduce the potential negative impact to workers by the end of quota,” says Sasha Radovich, Senior Manager of the MFA Forum. “Much still needs to be undertaken to make responsible competitiveness a reality. But the Forum has done its significant part in building the relationships necessary to tackle some of the most intractable issues of this industry and to improve the capacities in-country that enable implementation bodies to deliver. This network and its ability to continue to work together is the enduring legacy of the Forum.”

Over the course of the final work period (July-December 2010), a number of significant activities will be undertaken at the country-level. Final work plans and resource allocations have been identified for the transition or wind-up of work programmes. To ensure the sustainability of its work, the MFA Forum is focusing on capacitating actors in-country and on identifying and managing the transition to implementation bodies it works with, such as the ILO-IFC Better Work program. The significant lessons and learning from this unique organisation will be shared in early 2011.

The Forum has been hosted by the non-profit organisation AccountAbility and supported financially by the British, Swedish and US development agencies, by corporate contributions and in-kind support. For more information, please contact Kate Ives, kate@accountability.org
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Quotes from participants:

Kindley Walsh Lawlor, Vice President, Social and Environmental Responsibility, Gap Inc.:
“Gap Inc. made financial and operational investments in the MFA Forum because we saw it as an effective way to work with others to address social challenges that needed industry-wide solution. By working with the Forum in various countries, including Bangladesh, Lesotho and parts of Central America, we observed that they strengthened relationships among brands, NGOs, trade unions, national governments and multilateral organizations.  As the Forum comes to a close and our industry faces new challenges, we are confident that the relationships established through the Forum will continue to drive positive change for workers and their communities across the globe."

Jean-Paul Sajhau, Team Leader of the Manufacturing, Mining and Energy sectors in the International Labour Organisation (ILO): “The MFA Forum has facilitated a constructive exchange of views, at a sectoral level, between all the parties concerned. In some countries like Morocco, the MFA Forum has, in collaboration with the ILO, allowed partners to benefit from direct access and support from the foreign buyers to reinforce the sectoral social dialogue.”

Laura Carter, Policy Assistant to the General Secretary, from the International Textile, Garment and Leather Workers’ Federation (ITGLWF): “The MFA Forum has furthered the notion that decent work is a key ingredient of competitiveness and that concerted action is needed from all sides to secure the future of the industry.  For instance in Lesotho, where the garment sector is almost the sole source of manufacturing income, MFA Forum members have worked to improve working conditions and labour standards, to secure support for infrastructure development and to develop market openings.”

Lynda Yanz, Executive Director, Maquila Solidarity Network (MSN): “The MFA Forum has given labour rights NGOs like ourselves opportunities to speak directly with international brands, local manufacturers and governments about systemic problems in the global garment industry that are not being adequately addressed by company codes of conduct or government regulation. These include the impacts of irresponsible factory closures on workers and communities, sourcing decisions that are still based more on price than on decent labour practices, and barriers to freedom of association in many producer countries. The MFA Forum provided a space for many of these multi-stakeholder discussions to take place. Fortunately, they will continue beyond the life of the Forum.”

Abdellah Hassiane, President of the Moroccan Bi-partite Committee: “No one believed in the beginning that we would achieve what we have in Morocco. The Moroccan stakeholders now sit together at the same table, and speak about the sector’s competitiveness. They make plans on issues relating to social dialogue and social responsibility. The Moroccan Bi-partite Committee, established through the MFA Forum, is unique, and although the Forum closes in December, the Committee will remain strong.

 

MFA Forum Progress Reports:

The MFA Forum is pleased to announce that all working groups have submitted their progress reports based on their work plans that were approved by the Executive Committee earlier in the year. These reports will be discussed at a review meeting taking place in New York on 22 - 23 June 2010.

Americas Progress Report

Lesotho Progress Report

Morocco Progress Report

 

Bangladesh Call for Proposals:

Following the decision of the MFA Forum Executive Committee and the Bangladesh Steering Committee to suspend activities of the Bangladesh Working Group, we are now opening up a call for proposals for work to take place on three critical issues in the country:

1. Freedom of Association / Collective Bargaining

2. Wages

3. Decent Work

Further information can be found in the attachment. Please share this information with everyone this might be of interest to. Should you have any urgent queries, please contact the MFA Forum Secretariat.

Bangladesh Call for Proposals


The MFA Forum Morocco Buyers Group Meeting - Barcelona:

The MFA Forum Morocco Buyers Group will meet in Barcelona on 19 February 2010 to learn more about the ILO Better Work plans and to draft a work plan for 2010. Daniel Cork of the ILO Better Work team will update the group on the plans for Morocco and the ILO/MFAF in-country consultant, Neama Ouazzani presents the perspective of the local stakeholders to the MFA Forum buyers.

We are also pleased to announce that Beatriz Bayo from Mango accepted her nomination as the new Chair of the Morocco working group.

Honoring Neil Kearney:

With great shock and heavy hearts, we share news that Neil Kearney, the General Secretary of the International Textile, Garment and Leather Workers’ Federation (ITGLWF) and Executive Committee member of the MFA Forum, passed away in Dhaka, Bangladesh on November 17, 2009 from a massive heart attack.

Neil was our dear friend, and friend to the labour rights movement everywhere. ;Neil was one of the founders and driving forces behind the MFA Forum.  He, of course, was tirelessly engaged in the work we have in Bangladesh, Morocco and was the Chair of the Lesotho group. As we try to understand the wider implications of this loss we also no doubt will struggle in the vacuum that his loss will bring to the Forum. We will no doubt miss Neil’s tireless fight for labour rights and his dedication to his work and the work of the MFA Forum.  With bitter happiness, we feel blessed that we were able to spend quality time with Neil recently while at the international convening of the MFA Forum earlier this month. His presence will be sorely missed for all the organisations and individuals that he worked so vigorously for, as we all move forward without his leadership.

Neil Kearney, 59, became the General Secretary of ITGLWF in 1988. Born in Donegal, Ireland, he started his trade union career with the Irish National Union of Tailors and Garment Workers in 1972. In 1998, he received the “IL Natale, La Notta della Vita” International Award for his work on the elimination of child labour worldwide. A year later, he received the “Work and Environment Award” of the Associaiazione Ambiente e Lavoro for his work to improve working conditions in the developing world. He is survived by his wife, Jutta, and two daughters, Nicole and Caroline.
 

Alan Roberts, Lakshmi Bhatia, and Neil Kearney at the MFA Forum meeting in Bangladesh, 2006

With condolences to his family, the ITG and the colleagues that worked closely with him.
Sasha Radovich
MFA Forum